- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
British label JW Anderson has launched a campaign on social media calling for photography submissions to find a hot new talent to shoot its autumn/winter 2018 campaign.
On the label’s website it asks: “Your picture, our future - send us 6 original images you have taken. Images of the here and now, wherever you are. People, landscapes, objects, everything. Unpublished.”
Commenting on the decision to crowdsource his brand image, Anderson said: "It was and still is about an original and sharp vision for JW Anderson; by asking for submissions in this way, it really feels like the right way to find new imagery.
“We have taken a chance on image-makers in the past, and we decided to do it in an even bigger way now."
Aimed at professional and amateur photographers between the ages of 18 and 30, the label goes on to ask: “Do you have image fatigue? Do you have a sharp vision? Do you want to be part of a new, new wave?”.
The website goes on to add: “No time wasters. It is not as easy as it looks. You have to know you have something to say. That something has to apply to our world.”
Entries must be received by 12 noon on March 12 and Anderson will lead a jury to review submissions. The winner will be notified in March and will receive a contract worth 5,000 pounds and expenses to shoot the brand’s autumn/winter 2018 campaign.
The finalists will also be featured in an exhibition held by JW Anderson in May 2018.
Image: via JW Anderson website
- Yankeemagazines |
Trendstop's catwalk experts bring you the essential collections and most influential designers showing across the international Men's Style Weeks. Inspiring and innovative, these key styles will be impacting the direction and development of the menswear market into Fall/Winter 2018-19 and beyond. Our comprehensive catwalk show coverage and accompanying galleries evaluate each trend's commercial value and longevity, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.
This week, Yankeemagazines readers get an exclusive look at three menswear catwalk collections. A Western influence was seen at both Louis Vuitton and Dries Van Noten, creating some of the season's most interesting and unexpected hybrid styles. At Marni and Dries Van Noten, heritage and classic menswear codes were subverted with a darker, edgier feel. Punk elements and haphazard arts and crafts techniques transformed traditional silhouettes and played with surface texture.
Kim Jones' last collection for Louis Vuitton blended the designer's own explorations with the iconic house's rich travel heritage. A premium take on the outdoor coat saw performance and utility components applied to with luxe vicuna while hiking boots were given a Western twist to create new trekker/cowboy hybrids.
Arts and crafts were given a darker twist at Marni with a chaotic mix of textures, punchy graphics and blanket-esque layering. Illustrations by Frank Navin were screen-printed onto tailored suiting while trekker sandals and leg warmers introduced an outdoor aesthetic that enhanced the collections overarching 'geek chic' appeal.
Dries Van Noten
Classic British menswear provided the basis for Dries Van Noten's latest collection, subverted with an anarchic element that came through in the punkish pants and kilts. An American West vibe was also evident in the floral embroideries and fringe trim details applied to tees and shirts.
Yankeemagazines readers can get free access to Trendstop's Spring Summer 2018 Top Collections by City report, a curated overview of the most influential collections. Simply click here to receive your free report.
Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.
Images courtesy of Trendstop: Louis Vuitton Fall Winter 2018-19, Marni Fall Winter 2018-19, Dries Van Noten Fall Winter 2018-19.
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Scottish label Charles Jeffrey Loverboy is launching its debut womenswear collection with an exclusive capsule line for MatchesStyle.com.
The 18-piece womenswear collection sees signature Loverboy styles reimagined, or in some cases, true to the gender-fluid spirit of the label, which showcases as part of London Style Week Men’s, as supersized and reinterpreted in new and exclusive colourways.
Jeffrey’s signature ‘drunk’ tailoring, where silhouettes are oversized and slouched, knotted and twisted to create deliberately awkward shapes anchors the capsule collection, which also features shrunken logo hoodies, shredded knits and structured pencil skirts.
Commenting on the collection, Jeffrey said: “Since beginning work on this project I could always see really clearly a group of women who it’s intended for - lots of different profiles, but what ties them together is that they are all really real. Hardly any make-up, almost scrubbed skin.
“The women in my life have been wearing our collections since the beginning, but it’s a thrill to develop these pieces specifically with a woman in mind.”
The debut womenswear collection comes off the back of a transformative 2017 for the British designer, where he was awarded the British Emerging Talent prize at the Style Awards, and his contemporary menswear catwalk shows were critically acclaimed.
Charles Jeffrey Loverboy adds womenswear with exclusive collection for Matches
The entire collection has been produced in the UK and is being celebrated with a hypnotic campaign by photographer and film maker Matt Lambert, which tells a darkly magical story via the Scottish tradition of a "waulking song”, an ancient folk song, performed by groups of women rhythmically beating fabric against a table to soften it.
Jeffrey and Lambert developed the campaign via references including Michael Lucid’s cult 1996 documentary ‘Dirty Girls’, the horror classic ‘The Wicker Man’ and Disney’s ‘Hocus Pocus’ to fuse the naive and the hedonistic in keeping with Loverboy’s fashion.
On the campaign, Jeffrey added: “The energy and history of waulking songs speak to me so much. They’re about finding magic in human connection, a kind of therapy through sharing hard work. These are ideas that are central to what we do with Loverboy, it feels very poetic to me, the idea of people joining a chorus.”
The Charles Jeffrey Loverboy womenswear collection ‘Awrite Hen…?’ launches today, February 7 exclusive on MatchesStyle.com, with prices ranging from 189 to 1,430 pounds.
Images: courtesy of Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
- AFP |
Tom Ford used his first fully-fledged men's runway show in New York on Tuesday to unveil a debut underpants collection, bathe a Manhattan landmark in violet and give his classic suiting a Los Angeles twist.
It was a fall/winter 2018 collection of quintessential Tom Ford tailoring and statement sunglasses, offering the international jet-set a blend of James Bond, ski chic, London mod and California breeze. His models strode out on a violet-carpeted runway at the Park Avenue Armory to the strains of Sting and Lana Del Rey, his Tobacco-Vanille fragrance hanging thick in the air and distributed as party favors at the end. The 56-year-old, Texan-born, movie-making designer who told Women's Wear Daily that he designs "for the hypothetical six-foot-three version of my 27-year-old self" sent out topless models in a dazzling array of silk, metallic and animal print briefs paired with socks.
Launching both the underwear and watches at his show, Ford described the former in his WWD interview as "very sexy" and "very real." Revealing that he had become a vegan and would limit his use of fur, there were drain-pipe style pants, eyes shielded by science-goggle and Bono-style yellow sunglasses. Sportswear was referenced in hoodies, oversized bags and sneaker-style loafers. For evening wear, he offered metallic turtle necks, a sparkly blue snakeskin print jacket, or black and silver shimmering in the light.
There was pin stripe and tweed for the boardroom, and suits reimagined in the summery colors of pale yellow and delicate pink -- a nod to European tradition given a very American, contemporary makeover. The show comes a decade after the designer, who shot to fame at Gucci, launched his eponymous men's label. Apart from a show to open his London store, he has previously done small men's presentations.
Now based in Los Angeles, but having previously lived in London, Ford is best known for his sharp suits, which start at $5,000 off the rack. "Living in Los Angeles is making my clothes, both men's and women's, more relevant," he told WWD. "Much of the rest of the world, they want luxurious pieces but they are dressing in a more casual way." Men's Style Week closes Wednesday. Ford will unveil his women's fall/winter collection at the same Park Avenue Armory set Thursday. (AFP)
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Tour de France champion and Olympic Gold medalist Sir Bradley Wiggins is joining forces with Le Col, the premium British cycling brand to launch his own cycling apparel line ‘Le Col by Wiggins’.
The line will debut for spring/summer 2018 and has seen Wiggins being fully involved in product development and working closely with Le Col founder Yanto Barker on bringing the cycling legend’s “unmistakable style” to the collection.
Commenting on the collaboration, Wiggins said: “Throughout my career, I’ve always strived for perfection and demanded the very best kit to help me perform.
“The opportunity to partner with Le Col was a no-brainer, as I know Yanto shares this passion and produces the best technical kit on the market. I’m really excited about bringing my personal style and technical input to a brand already renowned for performance.”
Barker, who has known Wiggins since they were juniors in Team GB 20 years ago, added: "When I started Le Col in 2011 I would often speak to Brad in the peloton about performance, style and design so in a sense he was involved in Le Col from the very start.
“Even at that stage Brad was interested in designing his own range but obviously had other priorities. I'm delighted that he's now joining us to create Le Col by Wiggins, where we'll combine our shared relentless focus on performance and detail, allied to Bradley's unique style and iconic status as Britain's greatest ever cyclist."
The partnership will also see Le Col become the technical kit supplier for Team Wiggins, the professional development team created by Wiggins in 2015, replacing Rapha.
Image: Le Col website
- Vivian Hendriksz |
STORY MAP Ready or not, it's time for Style Week! With New York Style Week Men's underway, the fashion industry prepares for the start of the international women's ready-to-wear fashion weeks. Kicking off in New York as part of the extended NYFW schedule, the Autumn/Winter 2018 season officially opens on Thursday, February 8th, with shows from leading designers such as Jeffrey Dodd, Tom Ford, and Jeremy Scott. The following few weeks will become a blur of fashion shows, events, presentations and more in the fashion capitals New York, London, Milan, and Paris.
Although this season of the bi-annual fashion weeks is likely to see a number of changes as the industry landscape continues to evolve, it also sees a shift in Yankeemagazines coverage of each fashion week. Yankeemagazines aims to take a more personal note to its fashion week coverage, offering its readers editorial insights, professional views and unique stories that can't be found elsewhere, starting with our preview below. Here, we gather our personal selection of the main highlights from the big 4 and share them in the interactive story map below.
As Yankeemagazines strives to offer its readers the most valuable, well-thought out and much-needed information, we also seek out new ways to tell original stories to enhance our readers' knowledge, as seen in the story map.
Photo credit: Dries Van Noten AW17. Catwalkpictures
- Vivian Hendriksz |
CEO INTERVIEW There are not many brands who can claim they invented something as important, groundbreaking and functional as the modern day underpants. But this is an invention that French heritage brand Petit Bateau takes pride in claiming. It was 100 years ago that Étienne Valton, together with his brothers André and Xavier, heirs to the knitting company Valton & Sons, decided to cut the legs off the 'long-john' undergarments people donned underneath their clothing, thereby creating the first version of the modern-day panty. "The panty was seen as a radical innovation at the time because before then adults and children wore long underwear," explained Patrick Pergament, CEO of Petit Bateau, one of the oldest fashion brands in France. "This innovation happened in a time when women were cutting their hair short and men were shaving off their beards - it was a pivotal time in history when a lot of social changes were taking place, from the way people were dressing and expressing themselves to politics."
The panty was an instant hit, especially among children, and Petit Bateau went on to sell more than 30 million items of its hero "400" panty between 1921 and 1930. Petit Bateau panties are still in high demand today among mothers and children and in honour of one of its best selling products, the brand has created a special capsule collection based on some of its archive panties. Set to launch at a special event at Palais de Tokyo on February 6 and in stores on February 7, the collection includes Petit Bateau's original high-waisted panty in 2x2 rib and its classic panty in 1x1 rib. "We wanted to take the time to celebrate this anniversary because the invention of the panty was really the launch of the Petit Bateau brand. We decided to look inside our archive and take three different types of panties that used to be produced by the brand and modernize these historical panties for our 100-year collection."
Petit Bateau to launch centennial panty collection
In addition to launching its special centenary collection, Petit Bateau also launched an online competition last month, asking its customers to come up with own designs of its iconic panties. "We were extremely surprised by the level of enthusiasm that our customers have for the brand. We received more than 11,000 applicants for panty designs." A special jury which includes Brune de Margerie from Elle France, Bertrand Guyon from Schiaparelli and influencer Elsa Muse, who will also create a panty design, is set to select six winners, who will receive a cash prize and a visit to the company's factory in Troyes, France. This anniversary is particularly meaningful for Petit Bateau because it is one of the oldest brands in France that still produces its own knits and products, which is one of the key aspects behind its ongoing success, according to Pergament. "This anniversary does not only mark the birth of the panty, it also celebrates our own heritage and reminds us that we come from this time in history."
Petit Bateau certainly has come a long way since the launch of its panty, branching out over the years from underwear and nightwear for children and mothers to include apparel for men and women as well as accessories. "Mothers originally came to Petit Bateau to buy pajamas and panties and we are still selling a lot of those products. But we are also selling more daywear. The new mothers of today and grandmothers really like to buy complete looks from us," notes Pergament. Although the French brand is facing increasing competition from fast-fashion retailers, it continues to do well, with business growing steadily each year, according to the CEO. "We hold a strong position in the apparel market for many reasons. One because people recognize us - we are a strong brand because people trust the brand. But this does not guarantee the brand's success." Rather Pergament attributes Petit Bateau's success to maintaining the brands DNA, which includes their roots as a knit manufacturer while ensuring their product offering remains modern, creative and relevant. "We are very singular in the fashion marketplace in that sense because we produce the majority of our products ourselves and selling them in our own stores."
Petit Bateau sets its sights on becoming big in Japan (and China)
It is this singularity which has also helped propel the brand's popularity in Asia. Japan has rapidly grown to become Petit Bateau's second strongest market after France. The brand has managed to double the size of its business in Japan and aims to double it again within the next five years. Petit Bateau also has plans in the pipeline to grow rapidly in China. "We opened our first store in China two years ago and by the end of 2017 we had 34 stores," says Pergament. "We aim to operate 64 stores in the country by the end of next year." Overall he foresees Asia becoming the brand's strongest market within the next five years. The French brand is also growing in its mature markets and aims to open stores in Switzerland, Russia, Qatar, Egypt and the Middle East. For example, Petit Bateau recently opened a new store in Rue des Francs Bourgeois, in Paris, and aims to open its new store concept in its flagship store on Rue de Sevres.
But the brand is not just investing in strengthening its physical retail presence, as e-commerce continues to count for a larger part of the brand's sales. "The e-commerce side of the business has really grown recently - it has more than doubled over the last 4 years." Petit Bateau is achieving double-digit growth through its online channel in nearly each of its markets every year, especially in Japan and Germany. However one of the real issues the brand faces at the moment is how much to invest in retail and how much it should invest in digital. "We clearly see there is a shift in consumption towards the digital space, but we also need to expand our stores. The right mix of stores and digital is one of the key strategies we are working on at the moment. It is important to understand what we should prioritize and how we can convert sales between the two channels." Which is why Pergament is working on fine-tuning the brand’s omnichannel strategy and bringing its online and offline channels closer. For example, in order to help convert sales between their channels the French label is expanding its click and collect services to more of its stores and offering customers to option of ordering items online in store.
Petit Bateau to unveil new store concept in March, 2018
"Mothers, fathers, and grandparents are shopping more and more online so retailers all need to propose a different type of shopping experience to the customers," stresses Pargament. "We imagine Petit Bateau to be a unique brand, so what we want to convey are those two main elements of our brand's story in store. We want to develop something which enhances our customer's experience and conveys our history. At the moment we do not feel like our stores really convey this our customers, so we are working on that," he adds. Although Pargament is not able to share more details concerning the brand's new store concept, other than they aim to unit the brand's online and offline shopping journey into a seamless experience, Petit Bateau is keen to convey the story as well as the experience of childhood in its stores, "which is the main source of creativity" behind the brand.
The brand is also keen on communicating its sustainable guidelines to customers in store, as sustainability remains an important aspect to Petit Bateau. “For a long time, we were working sustainably without even knowing we were doing it. A very interesting a word I learned recently is ‘green hiding’, something which I think we did,” he adds with a laugh. “Of course if you are developing extremely high-quality products, then you ensure you have quality everywhere - so the issue for us is how to communicate to the customers what we do, where we do it and how we do it. We are trying to establish a database of all our products and certifications this year in order to give much more information to our customers.”
Photos: Courtesy of Petit Bateau
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Elizabeth Stewart, celebrity stylist to actresses including Gal Gadot, Cate Blanchett and Julia Roberts, has created a shoe collection with contemporary footwear brand PLV (formerly known as Pour La Victoire).
The ‘Stand Tall’ collection, inspired by female empowerment and strength, features 10 styles including heels, platforms and loafers, which are set to debut in September and will retail for between 225 and 400 dollars.
This marks the first time Stewart has lent her name to a collection for retailing.
“My ultimate goal as a celebrity stylist is to ensure that when my clients step out onto the red carpet and into some of the most public moments of their lives that they feel confident, strong and empowered by what they’re wearing,” Stewart told WWD. “Style is an incredibly empowering tool for women to protect, enhance, embolden and even convey a message. I’ve partnered with PLV to design a collection of statement-making shoes perfect for the ‘red carpet moments’ in every woman’s life.”
The shoes will be available at select retail partners and on PLVshoes.com from September.
This isn’t PLV’s first celebrity collaboration, in 2013, the footwear brand named actress Cameron Diaz as its artistic director.
- AFP |
New York Style Week kicks off the global fall/winter 2018 season fighting to stay relevant blighted by sexual harassment scandals, an industry in chaos, and designers jumping ship. More than 230,000 people flood the US financial capital to attend the style fest that generates nearly 900 million US dollars a year for the city.
It is currently scheduled twice-yearly in February and September. But as social media influencers wrestle power from fashion editors and buyers, more labels than ever are opting out this season, abandoning New York for Europe or tearing up the runway show altogether. Here is a look at the top trends expected to dominate when Style Week formally gets underway on Thursday, preceded by three days of men's shows.
The sexual harassment watershed engulfing the United States and rocking the fashion industry has seen the Council of Style Designers of America unveil new guidelines in an attempt to clamp down on misconduct.
"We have zero tolerance for unsafe environments and strongly encourage everyone in our industry to report abuse in the workplace," wrote CFDA chairman Diane von Furstenberg in a letter announcing the guidelines, which also raise awareness against eating disorders and advocate greater diversity.
Misconduct accusations have seen celebrated photographers Terry Richardson, Mario Testino and Bruce Weber barred from collaborating with Vogue and Vanity Fair publisher Conde Nast. The magazine empire has issued a new "Code of Conduct" to include bans on alcohol on sets, on under-18 models without a chaperone, and for nudity or "sexually suggestive" poses to be agreed beforehand.
But the Model Alliance has demanded "meaningful and lasting change," saying "voluntary standards" without education, proper complaint mechanisms and independent enforcement "are not going to work." Marchesa, the label of Harvey Weinstein's estranged wife Georgina Chapman, cancelled their Valentine's Day show, still reeling from the fallout of his downfall over multiple allegations ranging from sexual harassment to rape, in favor of "an updated format."
Added to the schedule is a #MeToo fashion show -- named for the movement against sexual harassment -- on Friday to raise awareness. "The only way to change things is to be united... and stand up and say, 'That is not OK, we are not going to accept this anymore,'" organizer Myriam Chalek told The Daily Beast.
Period of chaos
Alexander Wang, the New York king of cool whose urban chic is so adored by off-duty models, is making his swansong before this summer ditching the traditional February-September calendar in favor of June-December. His departure follows the exit of Proenza Schouler and Rodarte for couture week in Paris on the same schedule, and Altuzarra, which moved to Paris Style Week.
"Why do something that's not working?" Stephanie Horton, chief strategy officer at Alexander Wang told a recent industry event in New York. "The business model needs to change because the consumer has changed." Steven Kolb, president and CEO of the CFDA, predicts that other designers could follow suit. "I think it'll be a period of chaos, maybe, but chaos always calms down at some point," he told the same event in New York.
Tommy Hilfiger is taking his see-now, buy-now fashion roadshow to Milan, Rihanna's Fenty collaboration with Puma is taking a break, and rap superstar Kanye West chose to unveil his latest installment for urban sportswear brand Yeezy last week on Instagram, modeled by his wife Kim Kardashian.
British former Spice Girl Victoria Beckham is marking her last show in New York before celebrating her label's 10th anniversary in London. Spanish label Delpozo is already moving to London and Tome to Paris. Bucking the trend is Italian luxury house Bottega Veneta, showing at the American Stock Exchange on Thursday as a one-off to celebrate a new boutique on Madison Avenue.
New York state of mind
Look out for the influencers -- the breed of bloggers, Instagramers and celebrities whose followings can shift markets and who are particularly dominant in New York. "We're so embedded in pop culture, in media and entertainment," explains Kolb.
Face and figure alone are no longer a guarantor of hitting the big-time. Instead it's genes, having the right name and an Instagram following. Think 16-year-old Kaia Gerber, look-alike daughter of Cindy Crawford already collaborating on a collection with Karl Lagerfeld, Kendall Jenner, half-sister of Kim Kardashian, and Gigi and Bella Hadid, daughters of "The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills" star Yolanda Hadid.
No longer just the face of brands, their huge celebrity following is a meal ticket for brands and they can monetize that. Think Calvin Klein's recent underwear campaign featuring the Kardashians. (AFP)
Photo credit: Catwalkpictures
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Plymouth College of Art and non-profit organisation Millfields Trust are launching a local manufacturing initiative, Makers HQ, which will provide cut, make and trim services to the fashion industry, with a strong focus on ethical and British manufacturing.
The initiative, aims to reignite the fashion manufacturing sector within the South West and will bring together academic institutions, businesses, designers, makers and members of the local community to create a sustainable and innovative new business model for the fashion and textiles sector in Plymouth.
The company aims to drive community regeneration, initially within the Stonehouse area, through job creation, increased retention of highly-skilled graduates and training opportunities.
Plymouth College of Art and Millfields Trust raised 184,000 pounds in funding from independent trust Power to Change and an additional 96,000 pounds from Plymouth City Council’s social enterprise investment fund to get the project off the ground.
The hope is that Makers HQ will also re-establish the city’s historical links with the fashion and manufacturing industry, as Millfields Trust is headquartered on Union Street within the former Jaeger clothing factory, which closed in 1997, at the loss of 250 jobs.
To help launch the project, Makers HQ is seeking to recruit a studio manager to establish the sampling unit and training facility. The closing date for applications is February 12.
Images: via Plymouth College of Art website