- Kristopher Fraser |
Jason Wu is saying farewell to Hugo Boss. As the brand shifts its focus away from its womenswear business and more on its core men's, Wu will be departing the company as their womenswear artistic director. However, Wu gave his Hugo Boss ladies one last presentation at New York Style Week.
It might be a maximalist era, but Hugo Boss is not a maximalist brand. Instead, Wu built the fall/winter 2018 collection around minimalism and inspiration from New York-based artist Robert Morris.
Jason Wu departs Hugo Boss
Wu reimagined the Boss suit with a new feminine silhouette with more pronounced shoulders and a contoured waist for a very tailored look that still flattered the body. Long gone are the days of the boxy women's business suits that was overly borrowed from the boys, now business women are allowed to fashion. True to heritage and tradition, the half-canvassed interior featured detailed workmanship.
To avoid the collection looking too mundane, Wu played with exaggeration of proportions with shirts made from cotton and silk satin. Dropped shoulders and voluminous sleeves added just a hint of drama to a very approachable collection. There were great touches for those who sometimes play it safe when it comes to fashion, but still want something about their outfit to set them apart from the crowd.
The inspiration from Robert Morris also came through with tailoring fabrics like wool flannel and felt, which were updated with inventive cuts and drapes, or sliced into stripes and patched with satin and chiffon. Contrast color accentuated raw-cut edges, and mohair fabric softened fine, windowpane checks.
In alignment with the minimalist approach, the color palette featured neutrals of charcoal, dark navy and black. Electric blue and pale yellow were thrown in for pops of color.
Overall, it was a fine collection that was a successful rebellion against the maximalist trend, and ideal for the Hugo Boss customer who is typically more understated. It Jason Wu's final adieu, and a captivating one to behold.photos: courtesy of the brand